Playing with Meringue and Chocolate Sable Cookies


Once upon a time there was dessert…

 It’s amazing how little you realize you know once you’re in the thick of things.

For the week, I’ve been walking around the kitchen, trying not to get in anyone’s way, looking like a deer in headlights. I was more than nervous on my first day. OK – I was terrified, and while the terror has ebbed somewhat, the nervousness and the dread that I’m going to royally screw something up has not.

It all started here.

It all started here.

Though I’m officially there to work with the pastry chefs – two hulking, towering guys who look more like they should be playing rugby than making velvety creams and delicate chocolates – I’ve also been assigned to help the sous-chef prepare some of the appetizers, assist the chef with lunch for the staff, prepare vegetables for dinner service, and basically watch everything that’s going on around me with an eagle’s eye, taking it all in and learning the fast-paced rhythm of the lunch service.

Yolks go in here.

Yolks go in here.

So far, they have been very patient with me, and in all honesty, they have no need to be. I’m a novice, and this is a restaurant with a reputation to keep. They would be well within their rights to yell and scold and call me names – if I fail it’s not only a waste of time, but also a waste of money. Instead they’ve been very fair, only getting slightly annoyed when I failed my first Chantilly aka whipped cream, (putting the right sugar in at the wrong time) and having me practice making lines and rosettes with left over meringue.

Cookie dough classic

Cookie dough classic

I’ve learned about the three types of meringue and their uses, that chocolate if treated properly never goes bad, about the two different ways of making whipped cream, proper ways of holding the piping bag, the different knives, and above all that if I don’t work cleaner and more organized the chefs are going to take my arms off.


Form and color!

As I work only for the lunch service, I have my evenings free to practice. This means there’s quite a bit of baking, whipping and chopping going on in my house. Any condiment or cream that can be put into a piping bag is served in strange looking arrangements, including guacamole and frozen banana “ice cream.” My husband is no longer allowed to chop onions, since I have to practice my mince and orange peels are set aside for slicing into very fine strips.

Time to meringue.

Time to meringue.

With a bunch of Italian meringue all over the house, and my husband’s colleagues eagerly reminding him that they’d be happy to take any “practice pastries” off my hands, I was inspired to make these decadent desserts. Plus, as many of you know, I have an abhorrence of wasting any food and as meringues use egg whites only, I had to do something with all the yolks.

One of the desserts served at the restaurant is tart citron semi-revisited with a thick sablé cookie, lemon cream, and meringue on top. I wasn’t about to go make lemon cream, but as I had been thinking about a chocolate sablé for two weeks, it was only a matter of keeping some meringue aside from my play-time to create a rather over the top dessert.

5 minutes in...

5 minutes in…

This time, I added a bit of Cointreau to my meringue, praying all the while that it wouldn’t collapse under the extra liquid. And some food coloring because I had it in the house and never use it.

10 minutes in...

10 minutes in…

Italian meringue is softer than the meringue you traditionally find in French bakeries. It doesn’t really dry out the way a French meringue does and is softer and more creamy. But it’s a bit scary to make as sugar and water need to be heated to a precise temperature and then poured into the egg whites at a regular, slow stream. The secret to Italian meringue is never stop beating. Even if you spill food coloring all over your counter and you look up to find your computer on fire. (I made that last one up.) The secret is patience, because you’re going to be there a while. I bring a book.

Somewhere close to 20...

Somewhere close to 20…

First there was some practice time. I hate my piping bag with a passion because it’s made of a porous fabric that leaks sugar every where. But it’s what I’ve got to work with.

Puffy and pink

Puffy and pink

Then it was time for the real thing.

I’ll be honest, while the taste and texture were there, the extra liquid of the Cointreau kind of collapsed the meringue. It would have been better to add the liquor with the sugar and water and not at the end. Live and learn.

Those pretty desserts are harder than they look.

Those pretty desserts are harder than they look.

Topped with a bit of passion fruit which tempered the sugar of the meringue and the bitterness of the chocolate, all the flavors came together.

But dessert was pretty and tasty... Happy endings.

But dessert was colorful and tasty… Happy endings.

I’m not including a recipe today, but for the sablés I took a note from Martha Stewart who had good recipe and process. All I added was three teaspoons of cocoa powder.

As for the meringue… once I master the process I’ll share. Making it still makes me nervous enough that I’m not sure if I can describe the process properly.

 And clearly, I still need plenty of practice with the piping bag.

About Holly

I love food and wine.
A Foreigner in France, Bakeries and Patisseries, Restaurants , , , , , , ,


  1. Wow, I seriously admire you for diving in to this; you’re amazing! Also, I didn’t really know the difference between Italian and French meringue…thanks for the lesson!

    • Sometimes when I’m standing in the back room staring at a pot of soon-to-be whipped cream, I wonder what I’m doing, but it’s at least a great experience!

  2. Holly, I’m sure you’re doing and will continue to do just fine. I’m not much of a baker and certainly not when it involves playing with meringue — I’ll leave that to you:)

    • Just getting the meringue into the pastry bag without making a mess took a lot of practice. I knew pastry was considered an “art” but I have so much more respect for it now!

  3. SUSAN


  4. Mom

    “The Girl Who Played With Meringue”. I think you are doing great; I would be scared to death as well – but I am sure they appreciate and see how dedicated you are to trying to do things right. You will certainly be a better chef after this stage is over and while you are learning a lot – you are teaching all of us as well. :)

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